I've been studying Tunisian crochet short rows and this hot pad is one result of my experimenting. Short rows involve working extra rows across a portion of the stitches on the hook, effectively lengthening the fabric in that specific area. You begin with a set number of stitches then each forward and return pass have differing numbers of stitches to create shaping in the fabric.

This pattern creates an extra thick fabric that's reversible and requires a single seam. The seam is extraordinary, as it's nearly undetectable.

NOTE: This is not a tested pattern. It's more scribbles from my notes. Please let me know if you find any issues.


Yarn:

Worsted Weight 100% Cotton (Lily Sugar 'n Cream was used in the 8" sample)

40 gr/1.4 oz - appx 80 yards/73 meters each of 2 contrasting colors or

80 gr/2.8 oz - appx 160 yards/146 meters if using a single color.


Tools:

  • Size I/9 - 5.5mm Tunisian Crochet hook with a 6"/15cm cable.
  • Sturdy darning needle
  • Scissors


Gauge:

  • 4 tss = 1" though this may be a bit distorted due to the shaping x 4 rows = 1.5"


Pattern Notes:

  • This pattern uses chain stitches (ch) and Tunisian Simple Stitch (tss).
  • Short rows are worked by stitching (x) number of stitches on the forward pass and then closing (y) number of stitches on the return pass.
  • Forward pass (FwdP) stitch counts include the loop left on the hook after every Return Pass (RetP).
  • There is no traditional foundation row in this pattern. The 1st "wedge" of the pattern is worked into the chain stitches. Each "wedge" thereafter is worked into the stitches of the previous "wedge".
  • When changing yarn colors, don't cut the yarn if you plan to alternate colors. Carry the yarn up to the next "wedge"


Forward Pass (FwdP) - tss (x) number of stitches indicated in the pattern. When the number of stitches extends past the last stitch of the previous row: tss to the stitch before the last stitch of the previous row, work into the last stitch of the previous row as an edge stitch (insert hook under both loops of the last stitch and pull up a loop) then proceed by working into the stitches below the previous row.


Return Pass (RetP) - The Return Pass throughout this pattern is (yarn over, pull through 2) including the edge stitch at the far left side of the work. This does not indicate a decrease, it's simply to reduce the bulk at the end of the short rows.

  • When the number of RetP stitches extend past the 1st stitch of the current row: work to the 1st tss of the current row, drop loop from the hook, insert hook in the back bar of the tss below the 1st tss of the current row. Replace loop on the hook. Yarn over and pull through 3. This is counted as one RetP stitch. Proceed by closing the remaining stitches indicated in the pattern.



8" Hefty Hot Pad

Ch 33 -

  1. FwdP - tss x 23 (23 loops on hook)
    1. RetP - (yo, pull through 2) x12. 13 sts closed
  2. FwdP - tss x16 (see FwdP note on how to work last st of previous row) (26 loops on hook)
    1. RetP - (yo, pull thru 2) x18. (see RetP note on how to work off last st of current row) 19 sts closed
  3. FwdP - tss x23 (30 loops on hook)
    1. RetP - (yo, pull thru 2) x26. 27 sts closed
  4. FwdP - tss x33 (33 loops on hook)
    1. RetP - (yo, pull thru 2) to end. Change yarn color on last RetP stitch.


REPEAT Rows 1-4 17 more times. Do Not Bind Off of change colors.


Tuck ends into the inside of the piece. With the last color used, cut the yarn leaving a 18" tail.


Seam last row to cast on row:

"Abbey Made" has an excellent video on this technique: Sew a Tunisian crochet seam - raw edge to foundation row - YouTube


Orient the fabric so the 2 edges meet to create a circle of double layer fabric. Lay your work with the last row lined up below the cast on row. With a darning needle and last color used, begin by running needle through the back bar of the edge st of the last row, then under the front bar of the edge st of the cast on row.


Insert needle from right to left under the front bar of the edge st of the last row, then from left to right under the front bar of the next tss (this creates a twtss).

Insert needle from right to left under both bars of the next tss of the cast on row.

*Insert needle from right to left under the front bar of the tss in which the twtss was made, then from left to right under the front bar of the next tss.

Insert needle from right to left under both bars of the next tss of the cast on row.

Work 6-7 stitches then pull the yarn to snug up the seam.*

Repeat *-* until seam is closed. Tie off yarn.

Cut a 12" piece of your color choice and thread the darning needle. Weave the needle through the center stitches and pull tight to close. Tie off the ends and tuck inside the hot pad.


10" Hefty Hot Pad

Ch 43 -

  1. FwdP - tss x 29 (29 loops on hook)
    1. RetP - (yo, pull through 2) x14. 15 sts closed
  2. FwdP - tss x20 (see FwdP note on how to work last st of previous row) (34 loops on hook)
    1. RetP - (yo, pull thru 2) x24. (see RetP note on how to work off last st of current row) 25 sts closed
  3. FwdP - tss x29 (38 loops on hook)
    1. RetP - (yo, pull thru 2) x32. 33 sts closed
  4. FwdP - tss x38 (43 loops on hook)
    1. RetP - (yo, pull thru 2) to end. Change yarn color on last RetP stitch.


REPEAT Rows 1-4 23 more times. Do Not Bind Off or change colors.


Tuck ends into the inside of the piece. With the last color used, cut the yarn leaving a 24" tail.


Follow instructions for seaming the 8" Hefty Hot Pad.




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